Authenticity

How We Authenticate Every Watch

At Gotham Trading NY, every watch that reaches our showcase has already passed a strict, multi-step authentication process. Based in Manhattan’s Diamond District, we buy and sell high-end pieces every day, so protecting our clients from counterfeits, Franken-watches, and undisclosed modifications is non-negotiable. 

Below is the actual framework we use when we verify a watch, whether it’s a modern Rolex, an AP Royal Oak, a vintage Patek, or anything in between.

Our Authentication Philosophy

  • No replicas, ever. If a watch doesn’t meet our standards, we don’t buy it or sell it.

  • Full transparency. If a dial, bezel, bracelet, or stone is aftermarket or replaced, we disclose it clearly.

  • Condition + originality. We care about both: the watch must be authentic and correctly configured for its reference and the era it represents. 

Step-by-Step: How We Verify Each Watch

1. Intake, Provenance & Initial Screening

Every watch starts with a detailed intake:

  1. We log the brand, model, reference number, and serial number.

  2. We record the seller’s information, ID (when applicable), and any stated history (original owner, where it was purchased, prior service, etc.).

  3. We photograph the watch from multiple angles, including the case, lugs, bracelet, clasp, dial, case back, and movement (if opened).

If available, we review the box, papers, receipts, and service records at this stage to see if the story and the watch line up. 

2. Reference & Configuration Check

Next, we make sure the watch is exactly what it claims to be:

  • We cross-check the reference and serial numbers against the manufacturer's specifications, production ranges, and known configurations (dial types, bezel styles, bracelets, etc.).

  • We verify logos, fonts, spacing, and engravings on the dial, rehaut (inner bezel), caseback, and clasp. Counterfeits often get these details slightly wrong.

  • For Rolex, AP, Patek, Omega, and other brands, we verify that the dial, hands, bezel insert, crown, and bracelet are correct for the specific reference and approximate production year.

If anything isn’t consistent with factory specs or known authentic examples, the watch is flagged for deeper review or rejected outright.

3. Case, Bracelet & Materials Inspection

We then evaluate the physical watch in hand:

  • Weight check: Genuine luxury watches have specific weight ranges based on their materials (steel, gold, platinum, titanium). Fakes are often noticeably too light or poorly balanced. 

  • Metal & finishing: We inspect the brushing and polishing patterns on the case and bracelet, the sharpness of edges, lug profiles, chamfers, and hallmarks. Over-polishing or inconsistent finishing can reveal prior heavy work or non-original parts. 

  • Bracelet & clasp: We check stretch, link construction, end-links, clasp codes, stamps, and closure function.

  • Aftermarket modifications: Any non-factory diamonds, bezels, dials, or inserts are identified and noted as aftermarket modifications, not factory original.

4. Movement Authentication & Internal Inspection

Whenever appropriate, our watchmaker opens the watch and inspects the movement:

  • We confirm the correct caliber for the model and era.

  • We inspect the finishing, engravings, rotor design, bridges, and components to ensure they match manufacturer standards. 

  • We look for aftermarket parts, swapped movements, signs of rust, moisture damage, or indications of poor prior service.

  • We check for magnetization, wear on pivots and gears, and the condition of gaskets.

If the movement or internal components don’t align with genuine factory construction, the watch is refused or clearly sold as modified/serviced with full disclosure.

5. Function, Timing & Power Reserve Tests

Authenticity is one side; performance is the other. We test:

  • Timekeeping on a timing machine (rate, amplitude, and beat error). 

  • Complication functions (chronograph start/stop/reset, GMT hand, date change, day, month, moonphase, etc.).

  • Power reserve to verify it’s within an acceptable range for the model.

  • Winding and setting feel, ensuring the crown operates smoothly and correctly.

Any watch that doesn’t meet performance expectations is either serviced or not offered for sale until it meets these expectations.

6. Water-Resistance & Pressure Testing (Where Applicable)

For sports and dive watches, and where the construction allows:

  • We perform dry pressure tests or appropriate leak tests (without exposing vintage/fragile pieces to unnecessary risk). 

  • We inspect caseback seals, crown gaskets, and pushers to confirm they are in a safe condition.

Vintage pieces or models for which water testing is not advisable are clearly labeled as “not guaranteed water-resistant,” regardless of any original rating.

7. Condition Grading & Originality Review

After the mechanical and visual checks, we grade the watch:

  • Case condition: sharp lugs vs. over-polished, presence of original lines, depth of hallmarks.

  • Dial & hands: original vs. service/replacement parts, lume condition, patina, any relume or refinish indications.

  • Bracelet/strap: length, stretch, and wear.

  • Original vs. service parts: We note if the watch has a service dial, replacement bezel, or other non-original but genuine manufacturer parts.

This is where we finalize how the watch will be represented on the site with clear notes on originality.

8. Paperwork & Provenance Verification

When a watch comes with a box and papers, we verify that they match the physical watch:

  • Warranty card/certificate: We confirm the serial number, reference, and any dealer stamps and dates match the case and movement. 

  • Original purchase receipt: If present, we confirm the retailer and sale date, ensuring they align with the watch’s production period.

  • Service records: We review any official brand service paperwork and match it to the serial and reference, noting when and what work was done.

  • Other certificates, including COSC certificates, limited edition certificates, and special edition booklets, are verified against the watch’s reference and production data.

If something doesn’t align, we either correct the listing description or decline the piece.

9. Final Quality Control & Documentation

Before any watch is listed for sale:

  1. We perform a final visual inspection.

  2. We confirm the complete set (watch, bracelet/strap, box, papers, accessories) matches what we’ll advertise.

  3. We assign an internal stock ID and store our findings, photos, and test results in our records. 

Only then does the watch go live on our website, marketplaces, or showroom.

What “Box & Papers” Actually Means

“Box & papers” is a significant phrase in the watch world, and it matters. Here’s what it usually includes and how we treat it.

The Box

  • Inner and outer boxes from the manufacturer

  • Branded watch cushion and any inserts, sleeves, or pouches

The box doesn’t prove authenticity on its own (boxes can be swapped), but the original packaging supports the watch’s story and typically helps increase its value.

The Papers

When we say “papers,” we usually mean one or more of the following:

  • Manufacturer warranty card or booklet

    • Shows the serial number, reference, date of sale, and authorized dealer stamp (depending on the brand and era).

  • Certificate of origin or COSC chronometer certificate (where applicable).

  • Instruction manuals and booklets are designed explicitly for the exact model.

  • Original purchase receipt/invoice from the retailer.

  • Official service paperwork from the brand or authorized service centers (stating what was done and when). 

These documents do not create authenticity on their own, but when they correctly match the watch, they add strong provenance and reassurance.

Do You Need Papers to Prove a Watch Is Genuine?

No. A watch can be 100% authentic even without its original papers, especially for vintage pieces, where paperwork has often been lost over the decades. 

Here’s how we handle it:

  • With box & papers: We verify and state that the watch is a “full set” or “box and papers” and price it accordingly.

  • Without papers, we still put the watch through the same authentication process described above. You’re paying for the watch first; paperwork is a bonus that adds value and collectability.

Our Promise

Whether you buy a modern stainless-steel sports watch or a rare vintage complication from us, it has been:

  • Authenticated by experienced professionals

  • Tested for function and performance

  • Accurately described with clear notes on originality and paperwork

If you ever have questions about a specific piece or would like us to authenticate a watch you already own, please reach out to us directly via email at gothamtradingny@gmail.com or by phone at +1 ‭(718) 717-4820, and we’ll walk you through the process step by step.

For a downloadable version of our authentication process, see our Authenticity Manual here.